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 DISCLAIMERUse this information as a 'rule of thumb' rather than ' the Gospel according to Captain Wicked'. The following information can be perhaps better acquired through your local Fire Prevention Bureau, or the National Fire Protection Association, which would bring it more up to date with recent improvements in the smoke detector field. National Fire Protection Association Home Page Also, my suggestions, and that's what they are, are subject to interpretation of Local and State fire codes in your particular area, which should be the guiding factor in types, placement, and number of units that may be needed in your particular dwelling.Alrighty then, let's begin. There are many types of detectors that may be found. The most common in a kitchen space, directly, is the heat detector, and is placed in close proximity to the stove itself. There are also various types found in commercial establishments, rate of rise detectors, etc., we're not concerned with these. Most homeowners/renters are dealing with the basic, over the counter smoke detector. There are two basic types of smoke detectors, one is the Ionization type and the other is usually based upon a signal from an LED being blocked from it's receptor by products of combustion (ok, I confess, I'm having a brain fart and can't remember the exact name of the thing...). Now, the second type is very common, and usually works well, but is subject to certain inherent factors that may affect it's performance. As I said it operates on the principle of a connection being maintained to a sensor of some type. Anything that blocks this signal, will cause the alarm to sound. Anything. Dust, bugs, moisture... you get the picture. It's effectiveness is dependent upon it being maintained, and, eventually, age. Anytime material is in the air, it tends to coat the mirror and/or sensor. Cooking smoke will cause a coating of grease of particles to adhere to the sensor, and eventually it will become so sensitive, it will trigger seemingly spontaneously. Sometimes, if you can identify the emitter and sensor, you can clean it with an alcohol swab, most times it's better not to take chances and replace it, once it reaches this stage. Many times, a monthly vacuuming will alleviate the dust/bug problem. The ionization detector is dependent on the production of actual flames, it's made to detect ions produced by open burning. It's not as effective on a smoky, smoldering fire as the other type, however, if your kitchen is in close proximity to the living area, and the detectors are subject to numerous false alarms due to 'normal' cooking, this may be the way to go. In my own home, I have an ion detector nearest the kitchen, and the other type outside of the bedrooms and in the cellar. Seems to fit the bill at the moment.
PLACEMENTYou don't want to put a detector in any 'blind spots' that are inherent in building construction. This means you don't want them in the corners or where the ceiling and sidewall meet. On ceilings, keep them at least 18 to 24 inches away from the walls and doorways. If you have to mount them on the walls, keep them the same amount of space down from the ceiling. Be advised, common sense must be used. If you place them 4' down from the ceiling, smoke will have to accumulate to this level before the smoke detector will sense it. Placement near a sink or outside of a bathroom will mean needless triggers from the steam produced when using hot water.Detectors hardwired (power derived from house wiring) or battery. Many times this is determined by local ordinances. Hardwiring takes out the problem of battery replacement, but makes it more difficult to move the unit if that should prove necessary. Finally, regular periodic testing of the appliance is recommended, at least monthly. Eventually you may hear a chirping sound being sounded at regular intervals. In most cases, this is a signal that the battery is low and should be replaced. Remember, if you are on vacation, or away from home for an extended interval, this important piece of information may not be heard, ergo, test frequently and after being away from home for any extended amount of time. Normally yearly battery replacement is recommended at one of the equinox's (Fire Prevention Week is in October, our municipality keys on that.) Speaking of Fire Prevention Week, some municipalities have a free giveaways of detectors at that time, check on it. Our local hospital gives new parents a free detector for the nursery (it's in the form of a child's toy, like a clown or a teddy bear). If there's a problem with a particular detector, and it can't be pinned down to any particular cause, check with the NFPA or your local inspectors for a possible problem with that particular detector. Our department, among others, was in a study to document a problem with a specific detector, pushing for a product recall. Hope I've helped. I really can't deal with specifics without knowing the layout of your dwelling and eyeballing the offending detector. I'd say if you have a really bad detector, first try cleaning it, if that doesn't work, try moving it to a different location, if you can, lastly replace it, or have your landlord replace it. I think the NFPA recommends replacing battery type detectors every 5yrs, but you can check to be sure with them or your local FD.
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